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Milano Fashion Week

In a more poetic vein, Blumarine’s collection was pretty and feminine in a series of delicate pastel colours. For night, glitzy mini dresses were warmed up with fox boas (the ultimate transportable fur accessory) and matching clutches or topped with retro-looking short natural Saga mink jackets.

Miuccia Prada turned to the ’40s to continue her research of the masculine–feminine tension. Purity of shapes and intelligent layering in discreet tonalities were interspersed with brightly printed blouses and colourful sweaters. Straight, simple, perfect, the Prada coats appeared in suede, tweed, and shiny leather delicately trimmed with mink.

It was back to the ’80s with clear references to Alaïa, Montana and Mugler at Gucci. Tom Ford went for cinched waists, high-standing collars and a profusion of nighttime glitter—exacerbated femininity at its best. A wind of neo-punk blew over the Jil Sander collection with black and red checks and metallic grommet-trimmed asymmetrical dresses.

Miniskirts are definitely making a comeback! Even Giorgio Armani shortened his skirts in a collection where he played less with rounded shapes opting for more geometric looks. The collection had a black-and-white theme with only small bursts of colour. It was warmed up by pieces such as a black and white boléro jacket, an evening coat and a featherlight organza scarf with strips of Saga fox.

Karl Lagerfeld was inspired by water for his Fendi collection that had a distinct ’60s slant, complete with microskirts and hot pants and a sci-fi edge. As always, the pièces de résistance were the furs and leathers.

Roberto Cavalli’s collection was true to form though slightly more subdued than usual. Cavalli loves fur and used it lavishly this season again mostly in natural, subdued colours with two exceptions: chubbies presented in indigo blue and forest green. The week ended with the Versace show which was preceded by a presentation of the Versus line. The Versus show opened with a parade of Saga fox numbers, mostly done into bomber jackets and collars but also in long, floor sweeping A-line coats lined in fox in clear yellow and soft beige tones.

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